Unfortunately from time to time Nepenthes fall prey to pests that can injure, mutilate, disfigure, and even destroy the plant. Luckily, with careful observation, most fatal pest problems can be eliminated before your plant goes permanently south! Since I grow all my highlanders outdoors without using a greenhouse, they are vulnerable to more pests than Nepenthes grown in isolated environments. This is by no means a comprehensive list of every pest that attacks Nepenthes. I imagine a person growing Nepenthes in the Eastern part of the United States will encounter some different pests that I haven't encountered here in California. However, I can provide some "red flags" or observations from my experiences that may help other growers respond to their Nepenthes' needs when they fall ill.

• Scale: This insect is my biggest problem. You can see them as little brown, cyst-like circles on the stem and leafblade of the plant. They are usually hard and crusty. Often, they like to attack the stem of the Nepenthes below the surface of the moss so they are hard to detect right away. I know right away when I have a scale infestation because of the ants! Scale produces honeydew as a waste product that ants love. Ants also can spread scale too. If there appears to be leaf deformation and wilting, this is another indicator that scale could be present. A healthy Nepenthes generally doesn't produce twisted, deformed leaves. I usually scrape the scale off with a long toothpick or "BBQ" wooden Kabob spear. If the infestation is more serious, then I scrape off the scale and spray the entire plant with a pesticide.

• Mealy Bugs:  Mealy bugs are white ovate shaped guys that love to get into small crevices of the plants to do their damage. They are easy to see because of their white, almost furry appearance. If you see white tufts under the leaves, those are eggsacks laid by the parents. I haven't had too many problems with these guys. Mealy bugs tend to be more of a problem with my Sarracenias than my Nepenthes. Ants are another "red flag" that Mealy bug may be present. Mealy bug produces honeydew like scale does that ants love. Ants move Mealy bugs to other plants as well. Mealy bugs can get below the soil level so if you see them dig down around the stem of the Nepenthes to check out how bad the infestation might be. Mealy bugs suck out the plant's juices so look for wilted, deformed leaves and stems. If you have a bad infestation then uproot the plant, spray off the entire plant with water, (optional; spray with an insecticide as well), and repot in fresh potting media.

• Aphids: Aphids have not been a big problem for me. Aphids like new growth so they will attack the growing tendril usually. Older, waxy leaves seem to be impervious to aphid attack. Since aphids are usually on the growing tips of Nepenthes, you can simply spray them off with water or use a sundew carnivorous plant to pick them off as well! I've done this with Drosera capensis. They love aphids! I rarely use an insecticide with aphids because they haven't been an issue.

• Slugs and Snails: I haven't had much a problem with snails because my Nepenthes are either in hanging baskets, or on tables that the snails can't reach. I have had small slugs get into the moss and do some damage. You can tell when a slug has got after a Nepenthes because there are "chew" marks on the leaves and tendrils. Also, they will lay their clear, gelatinous eggs in the moss that pose a potential threat as well. I've never used a pestcide on Nepenthes for slugs. With careful inspection, I can usually pick them out of the moss before major damage is done. My biggest concern is putting a small size 2 plant, like N. villosa, outdoors and then in the evening a slug trucks through and demolishes it. That hasn't happened yet but is always a concern.

• Whitefly: My Nepenthes have not fallen prey to these pets. They're relatively easy to spot. They look like small white things fluttering around the plants. Especially when the leaves are disturbed. Whiteflies lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves in circular ringlet patterns. To date, I haven't had any problems with whitefly. Some Sarracenias have had a minor outbreak. I usually use an insecticidal spray on the underside of the leaf to treat the plant instead of spraying the whole area.

• Fungus and Root Rot: This disease is outside of my experience and expertise. I've seen the results of root rot though. The plant becomes dessicated and wilted looking. Like it's not getting enough water. Then the plant dries up and dies. For some reason the growing tip is the first part to wilt and die followed by a blackening of the growing stem. Once the plant gets this bad, it's hard to salvage. This is usually the result from poor air circulation and chronic overwatering. My outdoor Nepenthes get plenty of air circulation and drainage so this problem I've never encountered. However, my lowlanders indoors could be vulnerable. I do tend to keep them on the wet side and air circulation is diminished. My best advice would be to throw any excess water from catch saucers and monitor the soil appearance. Soil shouldn't stink too much and the moss should be green.

Pesticides should be used as a last resort for treating plants. Obviously because they are chemicals, they could harm or even kill your Nepenthes. It's hard to go into a nursery and find people who have good information about pesticides for carnivorous plants. I have yet to find one label that lists carnivorous plants and how to treat them for pests. Most of my experience has come from treating orchids with the same pests as my Nepenthes as for which pesticides to use. I've experimented with a few different kinds and the one that works the best for me is Ortho Systemic Insect Killer. Formerly called Isotox. The label states that it protects the entire plant from chewing and sucking insects. Perfect! I mix up a gallon at a time as for the directions on the label. I think it's about 3 tablespoons or 1 1/2 fluid oz. per gallon of water. I then transfer the mix into a spray bottle and have at the little suckers. I only spray what part is infested and try to use it sparingly. I've had no leaf burn, pitcher drop off, or plant death from using this product. It's great on Nepenthes, Sarracenias, Flytraps and orchids too because it doesn't hurt the blooms. Once again, WHAT WORKS FOR ME MAY NOT WORK FOR YOU! When in doubt, call a reputable vendor who you buy your Nepenthes from and ask them what they recommend as well. I would imagine they have far more knowledge than I possess for treating diseases with their Nepenthes.